AKSUM: LAND OF THE QUEEN OF SHEBA

Some 365 kilo meters northeast of Gondar lies the town of Axum, Ethiopia’s oldest city. Axum dates back some 2,000 years to when it was the hub of the Axumite Empire. The Queen of Sheba made it her capital 1000 years before Christ. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church was founded here in the fourth century and Axum remains the holist city of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. 

All that remains now of Axum’s past glories are the huge granite stelae (pillars), some fallen and some still perpendicular. Made of single blocks of granite, the tallest stood over 33 meters high-the largest monolith in the world. The biggest now standing is 23 meters high.

Today, the Arc, which once housed the Ten Commandments, remains well hidden in Axum. It is guarded by a select group of monks, whose sole commitment is to protect the sacred vessel. Axum is also known for its massive, towering sculptures that are thousand years old. 

All three section of the 1,700 years old Axum obelisk has arrived back in Ethiopia, 68 years after it was looted by Italian fascists. Many Ethiopians see the obelisk as an important national symbol-its return has been subject to great national anticipation and excitement. Seized back in 1937 by Italian troops, it was taken to Rome where it remained, despite a 1947 UN agreement to return it to Ethiopia. It was eventually dismantled into three pieces in 2004 in preparation for its journey home, an operation which is costing Italy an estimated 6 million euros (£4.1 million). The monument is re-erected on its original place. 

The Grave of King Kaleb and the Grave of King Gebre Meskel, the reputed Bath of the Queen of Sheba, and a Museum are other historical attractions in the town. The ruins a few kilometers out of town to the north were once the Palace of Sheba apparently. The entrance stairs and floor plan are intact and the palace had over 50 rooms. 

Getting There

Aksum lies 1024 km north of Addis Ababa via Mekele or 1180 km via Gondar.

Daily flights connect Askum to Gondar, Lalibela and Addis Ababa. The airport is about 5km east of the town centre and most hotels offer a free transfer service.

Tours can be booked with local tour operators in Addis Ababa and the main towns.

Accommodation

Dozens of hotels are scattered around central Aksum, most of them catering to the budget and midrange market. There are also a few up market options.

Annual Events and Festivals

Aksum is an excellent place to celebrate Meskel (27 September except on leap years), a unique Ethiopian Christian festival commemorating the alleged 4th century discovery by Helen, the mother of Emperor Constantine, of the True Cross on which Jesus was crucified. The centrepiece of this colourful festival is the burning of a massive pyre in front of the central stelae and the Cathedral of Maryam Tsion. Other popular festivals are Timkat (January 19 except on leap years) and the day of Kidus Maryam (Saint Mary) on 1 December.

Shopping

Plenty of craft stalls running along the main road east of the central stelae field. This is a good place to buy traditional cotton cloths worn by the women of Tigrai, as well as baskets, crosses and other traditional handicrafts.